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Building The Best Home Studio for content creation

NOTE: https://youtu.be/cStsfPFBv_8 <--This post is a script for this video if you would rather watch.
Hello this is the Noobifier.
While we keep getting closer to the release of Star Citizen 3.0, I took the time to perform a full overhaul of my system and updated the studio. Welcome to a rundown of my system, and a behind the scenes overview of the home studio.
A year ago, my wife and I moved to Ottawa and at that time, I decided to invest a bit into the channel and build a studio in the unfinished part of the basement. Today I'm going to briefly talk about the room and the most recent update.
If you're interested in a more detailed look at the build, the final build video is linked up right now. https://youtu.be/r2o75E3cidY <--Link to build
When I started to make content, I took feedback seriously as I was trying to find my way. Subscribers and Viewers suggested, Audio was too loud, the music was crap, the text was hard to read, I spoke too monotone. You name it, I was doing it wrong.
I'm far from perfect but I realized early on that it's nearly impossible to fix bad audio in post. You can burn a ton of time trying to remove all the extra unwanted ambient noises from your environment. Other people talking or walking, a tv that is a bit loud, the traffic outside, kids playing… it's all noise pollution.
The only way to get rid of it is to ISOLATE the mic and recording environment. That's one of two goals I set out to control by building the room.
A friend of mine was curious and signed out a precise low level DB meter from work. After setting it up in the room on a tripod, we were able to achieve an ambient 4.6Db providing neither of us were in the room. Apparently, no matter how still a human is, we still raise the ambient to 5.8Db.We set up the same equipment in the basement outside the studio. With as many things turned off as I could, We could not get lower than 17 DB in my basement, with all doors closed at 11 Pm. Id consider that, a best case normal scenario to make a quiet environment. Then add back things such as central air conditioning, the servers and other systems and you can imagine it all adds up.
So, the room is indeed isolated, but that does very little for the second issue which is Echo. The idea of being an-echoic or echo free is to allow whatever sound source to be registered once by the target or microphone and then be scattered or absorbed.By never allowing the sound to reflect back once or several times, the recorded audio is free of reverb. Reverb is naturally occurring and is sometimes a valued part of recording. In this case, I want my recording to be echo free. I can always add it electronically if I want in post, but it's nearly impossible to remove it.
Different sound waves have different wavelengths and different energy levels. Each frequency requires a different approach. "Diffusers" and "Absorbers" are two types of control. Pyramid Foam or egg cartons will neutralize and do a great job to deaden the environment. This was proven to me when I removed the original wall treatment to prepare for the update.
Foam Bass traps will defeat most of the energy that will travel down the wall. You will notice in some pro level rooms that they use wall geometry as part of their design. This is not always possible so the corner foam blocks are a great construction free option.
My studio now uses two types of diffusers and foam to absorb. The front and back wall have what is known as a Quadratic Diffuser or Skyline Trap because of their resemblance to a downtown city skyline. The idea for the floor to ceiling baffles was always part of the original build plan, but it was too much to tackle at the time of the original build. The Baffles are made up of alternating 2x1 and 3x1 inch cedar. The baffles themselves are made from 1/4 “ ply in 3,4 and 5 “ lengths. As the name, diffuser suggests, any sound within the room will be split up and scattered. The foam will be a tricky balance.
Right now I have about one quarter of the baffles lined with foam, and although you would think, more is better, there is a balance I want to achieve. I will take my time testing out adding and subtracting foam until I like the sound.
There is a misconception that a person will go crazy in a totally quiet room. This is untrue. It's an odd experience according to people who visit the room for the first time, but it will not make you go crazy. Most people who visit can hear their own heartbeat and some can hear the blood flowing past their ears. With the most recent upgrades, I have finally achieved what I set out to, for the sake of content creation.
Future Updates are simple. I will in the future apply a layer of DeadLiner to the surface of the interior and exterior door. Deadliner is a fairly thick self adhesive rubber based sheet that can be worked into uneven shapes such as a door with a heat gun. It isolates and dampens vibration from permeating through an object. The door is a weak point, and this will address it.
Onto the network, gear and hardware. I don't stream so I do not require a capture PC. My main system is based of an intel 7700K Overclocked to 5.1 at 1.3 Volts on Liquid. There are 32Gb of DDR 4 memory at thirty six hundred megahertz. The video is being handled by a Gigabite 1080 G1 driving a 35” ACRE Predator 2K 144Hz Gsync monitor and a 24” Acer for productivity. There is a 500Gb Samsung 960 Pro M.2 SSD and a 1Tb Intel M.2 SSD on a MSI Z270 Carbon ATX motherboard. Power is a Thermaltake Gold 80 750W on a Thermaltake P3 Wall mountable open frame case.
If you plan to run a PC and monitor away from each other, you need to know that GSYNC and High Refresh Rates do not like distance. The reason the PC is directly on the wall behind the monitor, is to keep them as close as possible, while letting it be outside of the room. This is done to prevent heat and exclude the noise made from the computer.
Ill mention my accessories to give you some ideas for your own setup. I have a pair of Warthogs mounted to a stand up desk with "monstertech mounts". These I use for piloting. I have a ten-keyless Corsair K65 and a 21 key mechanical keypad, both rocking Cherry Red Switches. I use a Logitech G502 Mouse and wired Logitech g633 headphones. These I transition to for FPS. I have a classic Xbox 1 USB controller that I plan to use for land vehicles after 3.0 drops. I have a blue Yeti USB MIC on a RHODE P1 Arm and a Blue “Ring” shock mount. I use Trackir, a have a basic Logitech Webcam. Audio in the room is a pair of Paradigm Monitors being driven by a Yamaha Amp. They give me a neutral reference for mastering videos and also produce an awesome sound just for enjoying tracks.
Networked to all computers in the house is a I5 16Gb computer with a 500Gb SSD for the Operating System and 4x8 Tb Red Drives in Raid 5. The Array was scaled down from 36Tb as I never used over 18Tb. The new setup is formatted to 24Tb Usable. I use this computer to store historical project files off my main system, to stream media to any computer in the house and it's also the back end to the downstairs TV. The data is backed up to loose drives using an external dock.
My goal today was to give the community a detailed look behind the scenes, to curb curiosity or give you ideas for your own system. As you can imagine, 3.0 will bring with it a 100% change to pretty much everything. I'm going to breakdown the new system, weapons choices, sweet load outs and ideas to keep you informed.
Watch out for my exclusive review of a Wooting One which is a mechanical Analog Keyboard. This device may remove any possible downsides to using a keyboard in Star citizen.
If you found this interesting, please link it over to a friend or org mate.
Fly Safe and I will see you in the verse.
submitted by TheNOOBIFIER1337 to homestudios

Looking for help getting my computer to start

My computer started turning off a couple days ago with the blue screen and IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL being the error message. I looked up several troubleshoot methods online and tried a lot, but nothing worked. The last method I tried, which I thought worked for a short while, was to boot into safe mode and uninstall any drivers that were flagged with a yellow exclamation point. Which I did. I then rebooted my computer and was on it for about 2 hours, until it turned off again with that same error message and I haven't been able to turn it on since. It turns on and lights up, but nothing displays on the monitor(tried several different monitors) the keyboard doesn't come on, but the mouse does seem to light up. This is a new computer from August, fairly expensive and built on IBUYPOWER. I have since tried to reset it several times, I left the PC unplugged all day, I opened the case and removed several recommend pieces of hardware and re-seated them, I'm out of ideas and the internet is out of search results. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If it matters, these are my specs.
Battlebox 2019 Ultimate
AeroCool P7-C0 2x Side Tempered Glass RGB Gaming Case - Black
Intel® Core™ i9-9900KF Processor (8x 3.60GHz/16MB L3 Cache)
ASUS TUF Z390-PLUS GAMING -- RGB, 802.11ac WiFi, USB 3.1 (6 Rear, 4 Front), TUF Protection
32 GB [16 GB x2] DDR4-3200 Memory Module - Certified Major Brand Gaming Memory
Video Card:
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER - 8GB GDDR6 (VR-Ready) - Free Upgrade to GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER ASUS DUAL EVO OC
Case Lighting:
iBUYPOWER RGB Lighting - [FREE] 1 RGB Lighting Strip
Power Supply:
750 Watt - Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB - 80 PLUS Gold, Full Modular - FREE Upgrade to 850 Watt - Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB - 80 PLUS GOLD
Processor Cooling:
iBUYPOWER 120mm Addressable RGB Liquid Cooling System - Black
Primary Hard Drive:
500 GB WD Blue SSD -- Read: 545MB/s, Write: 525MB/s - Single Drive
Data Hard Drive:
1 TB Hard Drive -- 32MB Cache, 7200RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive
External Optical Drive:
ASUS External Slim CD/DVD Writer USB 2.0 (Black)
Sound Card:
Creative Sound Blaster Zx [PCIE] -- 5.1 Channels, 96kHz/24-bit, 192kHz/24-bit (Stereo Direct), 116 dB SNR
Speaker System:
Creative A250 2.1 Speakers System - Largest-in-class, down-firing subwoofer; Dual Slot Enclosure design
Network Card:
Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100)
iBUYPOWER Standard Gaming Keyboard
iBUYPOWER Gaming Optical Mouse - Multi-Color LED Lighting
Operating System:
Windows 10 Home - (64-bit)
submitted by Cowboysown511 to computers

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