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Positively Modern: Kenwood Basic C2 & Kenwood Basic M2A Updates

Positively Modern: Kenwood Basic C2 & Kenwood Basic M2A Updates
With my Kenwood KA-801 still on the bench and perhaps a little out of reach of my diagnostic skill, I've been working on my mid-80's Kenwood gear...and picking up one more of each, because the second time around is almost always better.
Anyone familiar with Dan Mattis' ( https://drmaudio.com/ ) work knows he offers quite a few kits for Kenwood Basic series gear, and I used some of his kits and know-how here.
Kenwood Basic C2 Pre-Amplifier
The Kenwood Basic C2 is a pre-amp that often gets lauded for its phono stage and versatility. The versatility part is certainly true, with five different impedance choices for the phono stage to accommodate both MC and MM cartridges. This works with a simple slide switch that changes which set of resistors the signal passes through, and then in stock form uses an integrated opamp to boost the signal (incorrectly labeled EQ AMP on the PCB).
The FLAT AMP portion on the PCB handles the rest of the inputs, and also comes stock with an integrated opamp.
So obviously, a 35-year-old piece of kit could use some servicing, and from stock form there's room for improvement. I did a full recap with Nichicon caps all around, different varieties based on usage in power supply sections or other, plus some KEMET and WIMA films where possible (WIMA seems to be in short supply for some necessary options, at the moment). All of the RCA connectors were swapped for Dan Mattis' drop-in (plus soldering) replacement kit, with much prettier, more electrically and physically sound connectors. Anyone who has frequently worked on C2's knows the rear connectors' solder joints often come undone over time, so there would likely be soldering work here in a service job anyway, and the kits are affordable.
The flat amp and eq (phono) amp integrated opamps ( NJM4560D-N and NJM2041D-D ) were replaced with sockets, and I dropped Burson V6 Vivid Dual discrete opamps into these. As a rule, and as a better rule to accommodate these, the 18v zeners on the power supplies were dropped to 16v. Dan Mattis himself doesn't see this as a good move, but it is a popular change during servicing, since the 18v stock versions is at or above the stated limits of the stock opamps. To my mind, a little less power hitting the warm-running opamps wouldn't be a bad thing as long as you're giving them enough, which 16v does in this case.
The opamps on the smaller control and EQ boards were both replaced with sockets and new (as opposed to the original, which were probably fine) 4560's. Switches cleaned, any suspect solder joints touched up.
Out with the old.
In with the new.
https://preview.redd.it/b5j8wlro87e51.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b7ce9d410fdbd1725fcfbfb7539ecc18bb77a6c9
https://preview.redd.it/6zq6bnro87e51.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c3a57f519aaed5912a228ae2b2821faa961badc
https://preview.redd.it/h5pk8mro87e51.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f3d710a0ba9bfaa15b98857f528ed475da3f4e6
https://preview.redd.it/vqjqjkro87e51.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5bd24cc50963a762aa7373d7e57f95fb759285e5
So, what difference does some TLC, a $70 Mouser order, and $130 in discrete opamps from Australia get you?
...a little bit. Most of this is because I'm into audio and we're all a bunch of neurotic weirdos, eh?
The refurbed C2 definitely sounds more "vivid," as the opamps' name promises. The RCA connectors deliver more peace of mind and firm connections (really great connector feel ;) ).
I won't get into a purple-prose description of the audio profile, but it definitely takes the C2 from detailed and maybe a smidge analytical to a richer sound without necessarily sacrificing the detail. It's an improvement to the ears, for sure. There's nothing necessarily wrong with integrated opamps, but the Bursons do shine here.
My turntable is only an LP-120 with a 2M Red, and I haven't pulled/bypassed the built-in pre-amp yet (it's on the project list), but I can say, banally, that records sound good through the C2's phono stage, with plenty of warmth and life from the grooves ticking through the V6 Vivid. I'm not a huge vinyl head, though I do listen semi-frequently, and making this change eases my mind a bit for when I do eventually step up my turntable/cartridge.
Kenwood Basic M2A Power Amplifier
Dan Mattis has put in exceptional work for this era's Kenwood gear, including modification kits for the M2 and M2A. I have two M2A's. Both recapped/serviced, but with one...I installed Mattis' output transistor replacement kit, which replaces the custom transistors originally used in the M2/M2A with contemporary, easily available, higher-power, and well-regarded transistors. The kit also comes with a new heatsink and driver transistors (with new heatsinks) to boot, along with detailed instructions (with photos). Dan is also incredibly helpful and had time for a phone call to guide me through a a tricky (to me) stage of this (getting the new output board wires through their corresponding PCB holes - oy).
Obviously, I also recapped my M2A's, save the main filters. These are a bear to find good replacements for, especially the 100V boys. Any future replacements of these will likely require drilling new lead holes, as the stock ones have tabs.
I added Mattis' new banana jack connectors to my M2A's to replace the janky twist-lock originals.

I trimmed down that insulator and the transistor is fully horizontal now.
Recapped Super DLD board with higher-capacity and voltage main caps. The M2A has this board and the M2 doesn't; Mattis sells a kit for M2's to essentially add it. Not sure why I used UFGs here....
The big Panasonic 4.7uf films are going to get replaced. I couldn't find 4.7uf WIMAs in the right lead spacing, so I tried these and failed. They're in here and WORKING, but...touching the heatsink? I think not.
The new output transistors, drivers, and driver heatsinks. Could probably use a zip-tie or four in here.
Old vs. new outputs and heatsinks. Did I mention a previous owner of this M2A was a smoker? It smelled awful and I bathed the main PCB in rubbing alcohol, swabbed it, wiped it, etc.
I have yet to do my direct head-to-head test - perhaps this weekend - between my two M2As to try to get the best sense for the audible differences between the old and new output transistors. I'll report back with that whenever I do it, but my main impressions after about three weeks of listening is that the new output transistors are more detailed and richer. To put it definitively, I think the new outputs sound better. Again, not going to do too much highfalutin marketing dreck writing...yet. Maybe with the head-to-head.

Questions? Criticisms? Total indifference?

Cheers.

Edits - a few typos, probably more fixes to come.
submitted by ajfinken to vintageaudio

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